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Frequently Asked Questions

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  • Q: I have a less-than-perfect wall and want to hide the imperfections without having to apply textured paint. Do you have any suggestions?

    A: If the imperfections are not too pronounced, sponge painting with multiple colors can hide a multitude of "sins." The greater the contrast among the colors used in the sponge painting process, the more the overall effect will hide imperfections. If you want an even color, flat finishes will tend to minimize some imperfections.

  • Q: What is the best way to touch-up or repair a wall?

    A: Touching up an existing painted surface can be challenging - professional painters wrestle with this constantly. Ideally, use paint from the same can that was used originally, but reduce it about 10% to 15% with the reducer recommended on the can.If you are touching up walls on which the paint was applied with a roller, use a small trim roller. If the paint was brushed on, use a brush.Apply a small amount of the touch-up paint and "feather" the edges, starting at the outside edge of the touch-up area into the center of the area. "Feathering" entails drawing the brush across the area outside of the touch-up onto the new paint to create a transition that diminishes the appearance of the touch-up. If the surface had to be patched, use a primer sealer. Try to prime and paint to a natural break. Please note, though, that sometimes repaired areas may be noticeable. In this event, painting the entire wall may be the best option.

  • Q: Is there a special paint for bathrooms?

    A: Yes, Our Bath Paint as well as Duration Home have been specially formulated to provide a mildew resistant finish in humid environments such as bathrooms. These tough durable finishes are suitable for use on interior walls, ceilings, and trim. Common household stains may be removed with nonabrasive cleaners. When applied according to label directions these products will resist mildew growth and will remain washable.

  • Q: When painting a room, in which order should I paint the walls, ceilings, and trim?

    A: As you can imagine, this can be open to debate. For the most part, however, the ceiling and walls are primed prior to installing the trim. Naturally, the ceilings are done first, and then the wall. Once the trim is installed and the edges caulked, the trim is primed and finish coated. The trim is therefore coated last. Even when repainting a similar order is followed. Ceiling first, walls second, trim last. If the trim were painted first, splatter from the roller could end up on the freshly painted trim. Since time is of the essence in repaint work, there is not usually enough time between painting the trim and painting the wall to use masking tape on the freshly applied paint.

  • Q: What is better enamels, latexes or oils?

    A: Enamel is a broad classification for finishing materials that dry to a smooth finish. In the past this term referred exclusively to oil base products, however, new generation latex products area also at times referred to as enamels. Because of these factors enamel as, a paint term has become somewhat ambiguous. Oil base products are those products that typically are composed of pigments dissolved in a mineral spirit such as paint thinner. While latex products are an emulsion suspended in water. The obvious differences are that oil base product require mineral spirits for clean up, have a longer dry time, and have a stronger odor while drying to a harder finish. Latex products typically will dry faster and are water clean up. Oil base products are used primarily where a harder finish is required. However, today’s improved latex products have allowed for the substitution of latex in nearly all scenarios that had traditionally called for an oil base material.

  • Q: Can you give me color advice? What colors are best?

    A: Color and moods There has been much written on the affects of color on the moods of individuals. Behavioral psychology books may be a good source on this subject.Here are some general concepts:Warm Colors (Red, Yellow, and Orange) attract attention, create excitement, promote cheerfulness, and stimulates action.Cool Colors (Blue, Turquoise, Green, and Purple) relax and refresh, promote peacefulness, encourage and concentration.Light Colors (Off Whites, Light tones) make areas seem more spacious and tend to give people a psychological lift.Dark Colors (Deep tones) Make areas appear smaller and long exposure can create a feeling of monotony and depression.Bold Colors: Attracts the eye and creates excitement.Whites: Reflect more light and denote cleanliness. They can unite spaces.

  • Q: What is the optimal temperature to paint outside?

    A: Until a few years ago, painting needed to done when temperatures were going to be above 50° F. However, with advances made in waterborne technologies, products like Duration®, Resilience®, SuperPaint®, A-100®, and WoodScapes® products can be applied when temperatures are as low as 35° F. Please note that surface, air and product temperatures must be at or above 35° F and that environmental conditions during and after painting need to be considered. Stable conditions and temperatures above 35° F are needed early in the paint’s drying schedule. The first 48 hours could be critical to successful drying.

  • Q: Roller covers come in different thickness (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" nap pile). When should I use one or another?

    A: Several factors should be considered when selecting the right roller cover. Viscosity of the product, porosity and texture of the substrate, as well as desired finish. A more viscous paint will require a cover that can hold more product. In these cases, a heavier nap of 1/2" or greater may be needed. Also, when the surface is porous or textured, a heavier nap covers would be needed. However, when the surface is very smooth and you want to maximize the overall sheen and finish, a thinner nap, such as 1/4" or even a mohair 3/16", may be recommended. Ultimately, refer to the product data page and/or product label for a recommendation on which type of cover to use. Be sure to stay within the recommended range. (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" nap pile).

  • Q: How do I calculate how much paint I need for a given surface?

    A: First calculate the actual square feet of space that will be coated. Then you will need to determine how many square feet a gallon of the intended product to be used will cover. Then it is just a matter of dividing the number of square feet to be covered by the number of square feet that a given product can cover. For example, if the product covers 400 square feet, and you are coating 1,000 square feet (1,000 divided by 400 = 2.5), you will need 2.5 gallons.400 square feet is theoretical because the texture of the substrate along with the material left on the applicator and other tools are not part of this calculation. This information is often available on the data page for the product as well.

  • Q: How do we go about painting kitchen cabinets that are stained and clear coated?

    A: After removing the hardware, clean the surfaces thoroughly with an appropriate cleaner. It is imperative that greases and oil build-up are removed prior to continuing with the next steps. Often furniture polish or some other wax-based material may have been used on these. If waxes exist, remove with ammoniated cleaners. Once clean, sand the surface to bare wood then apply an alkyd wood primer for best adhesion. The oil base primer will also help prevent any bleeding issues. Follow with a block resisting latex paint like our Pro Classic Waterborne or oil-based semi gloss. Naturally it would be good to test this system first on a small section prior to tackling the whole project.

  • Q: There seems to be a lot of discussion about the best method to paint the exterior of a house. Some say use a brush, some claim it is best to spray on the paint and then back-brush it, and others say just using an airless sprayer is best. What do you think?

    A: From a purely time savings consideration, airless spray is the most efficient way of delivering a paint product to a substrate. Also, when painting areas that have deep crevices, as in the case of wood shingles on the side of a home, this method can get the product into otherwise hard to reach areas. However, when coating wood surfaces that have a significant variation in porosity and/or when coating cementitious surfaces with a thicker paint coating, back brushing or rolling can be recommended so that the material can be driven deeper into the substrate and so that the overall coat can be uniform.

  • Q: Can I apply latex paint over a surface finished with an oil-based product?

    A: The general answer is yes. However, it is vital that the surface be properly prepared.If the surface may have been coated prior to 1978, please consider the following lead hazard cautionary statement:Warning! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as a properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call (in the U.S.) the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD or contact your local health authority.If no lead hazard exists, then the key is to render the surface clean, dry and dull. After washing the surface, use sandpaper (medium to smooth grit) to dull the existing sheen and to create a profile that will enable the new latex coat to adhere to the surface. If sanding is not feasible, test our Multi-Purpose Zero VOC Latex Primer. This product is made to promote adhesion to otherwise slick surfaces. While it can be very effective, we do recommend testing adhesion prior to beginning a project.

  • Q: I have an older deck and fence that has grayed out and is somewhat stained. How can I restore this wood to its original appearance?

    A: Redwood, red cedar and other resin-rich wood species have tannins, which weather to a gray look. You can remove the tannin from the wood's surface using our DeckScapes® Revive. The oxalic acid in this material will remove the damaged surface, thereby exposing fresh wood. Be sure to follow all cautionary statements on the label to avoid damage to nearby plants or person.

  • Q: Can mildew be permanently avoided?

    A: No. Mildew can grow in any area that is dark and moist with limited air movement. Paints can be formulated to inhibit mildew growth, but under some conditions mildew eventually will reappear on any type of paint. A cleaning or maintenance schedule is the best protection in such environments.

  • Q: What should I use to paint my garage floor?

    A: If this is a concrete slab on grade, check to ensure that the surface does not have a moisture problem prior to considering an opaque coating.Tape several a 2-foot square plastic sheets to the floor (use duct tape and tape around the entire perimeter of the plastic sheet). Leave in place on the floor for two days. Then, check to see if moisture is present between the floor and the plastic. If moisture is present, painting should not be attempted. If the area is still dry, then the surface can be painted. Clean the surface to remove all contaminants. Any grease, oil, or other fluids that may have spilled onto the floor must be completely removed or they will likely cause the coating to peel.If the surface is smooth, etch the surface to create a profile with the H&C Clean and Etch or similar product. To resist hot tire pick-up we recommend a solvent-based polyamide two part epoxy.

  • Q: Can I paint over wallcovering?

    A: We typically do not recommend painting over wallpaper. However if you choose to, there are many issues to consider. The seams may not lie down properly. Moisture from the paint could cause blistering or peeling. Over a heavy vinyl the paint's adhesion may be minimal. The texture from the wallpaper may not look very good on a solid wall. Note that the seams may be visible in some areas. Any of these things could cause a problem. For these reasons we always recommend testing the system prior to taking on the whole job.Keeping in mind the points stated above, the only paper that may be primed is nonporous paper. If removal of the paper is not an option first clean the surface. Then lightly sand the seams to make them as smooth as possible. Test a primer like the Sherwin-Williams Multi-Purpose Zero VOC Latex Primer on the wallpaper. If the primer dries without lifting or blistering, move to the next step of applying a finish coat over the primer.

  • Q: What can I use to clean an exterior surface prior to painting?

    A: In general, a detergent cleaner such as a TSP Substitute or a PrePaint Cleaner can be used. Be sure to wear all recommended safety equipment when working with these cleaners. Do not mix any other chemicals with these cleaners. Please note that some of these products could affect the overall finish on the existing surface and should only be used if you are planning to repaint the surface.

  • Q: I would like to paint the face of my fireplace. It is brick, do you recommend anything?

    A: Yes we do. After the brick has been cleaned to remove any contaminants from the surface with an appropriate cleaner and thoroughly rinsed apply one coat of Loxon Masonry Primer. Once primed follow with two coats of the desired finish. This material can resist temperatures up to 200°F. Naturally this system is not for the firebox (not for direct contact with fire). Also, if flames are able to shoot out of the firebox there is a possibility of scorching the newly painted surface.

  • Q: How can I clean a surface with mildew in preparation for a fresh paint job?

    A: There are various cleaners on the market that are specifically designed for the removal of Mildew. Many of these work quite well, however, a bleach and water solution will also work.Wash mildewed areas with a solution of one part liquid bleach and three parts water. Apply the solution, and scrub the mildewed area. Allow the solution to remain on the surface for 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with water and allow the surface to dry before painting. Heavy mildew may require additional applications. Wear protective eyewear, waterproof gloves, and protective clothing. Quickly wash off any of the mixture that comes in contact with your skin. Do not add detergents or ammonia to the bleach/water solution.Please note that these steps address the mildew problem only. Any other contaminants may require cleaning by other means.

  • Q: What can I use to clean a surface that has already been painted?

    A: Maintenance cleaning is vital to the overall service life of a painted surface. However, when selecting a cleaner, be sure to use a non-abrasive cleaner. If cleaning a waterborne paint, avoid products that are ammoniated. Mild, soapy water will generally suffice. However, always test the cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area to ensure that it does not damage the paint film.

  • Q: After varnishing with satin polyurethane I found that parts were almost completely glossy while other areas were nearly matte flat. What caused this and how can I fix it?

    A: Satin polyurethane is essentially the same type of product as gloss, but with a flatting paste introduced into the material to create the lower sheen. Unfortunately, because clear urethane products have very low viscosity, some of the flatting paste can settle to the bottom of the can.For this reason, it is important to stir the product frequently as you work with the can to ensure greater uniformity of sheen. If a product was applied with less-than-adequate stirring, the result will likely be as you described. We recommend allowing the clear coat to dry fully. Then scuff sand to uniformly dull the whole surface. Once this is complete, a final thin coat can be applied of the satin material. Be sure to stir as indicated to ensure a final finish that is truly satin throughout.

  • Q: Should I use semi-transparent or solid color stain on my house?

    A: To some degree, this may be an aesthetic consideration. A semi-transparent stain will show wood grain, while a solid or opaque stain will hide the grain but still allow the texture of the wood to remain visible. If the wood is sound and has a nice grain, it may be a matter of what is more pleasing from a visual standpoint. However, when wood is aged (with a potential for uneven wear), excessive porosity and/or extreme color variances, a solid or opaque stain will hide these imperfections. Please note that in some cases areas are damaged beyond repair. Such wood may be soft and excessively cracked or cupped. Such wood will not hold the stain over the long term and may need to be replaced prior to staining the whole surface.

  • Q: How do I paint my basement floor?

    A: First, it is important to make sure that this floor will accept a paint film. If the floor tends to have moisture coming up through the surface then painting would not be recommended. Even it you feel that the floor is dry, we recommend that you test for moisture. Tape several 2-foot square plastic sheets to the floor (use duct tape and tape around the entire perimeter of the plastic sheet). Leave in place on the floor for two days. Then, check to see if moisture is present between the floor and the plastic. If moisture is present, painting should not be attempted. If the area is still dry, then the surface can be painted. Clean the surface to remove all contaminants.If the floor surface is smooth, then etching will be necessary.Our Porch and Floor Enamel is a good choice for such surfaces. It has a satin finish, offers water clean-up of brushes and rollers used in its application and has fewer odors. Two coats are recommended. Follow all directions on label.

  • Q: I want to paint a wall that has wallpaper on it. I will remove the wallpaper, how should I prepare it before I paint?

    A: Scrape off all loose and peeling paint from the surface and wash the walls to remove any glue residue. If the drywall paper is damaged remove any loose paper and then use 80-120 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the area, this will feather the edges where the paper was removed. Then apply one coat of Sherwin-Williams Drywall Conditioner to the damaged areas. Our Drywall Conditioner is a clear, acrylic coating for sealing torn, ripped, and gouges drywall which occurs when wallcovering is removed. This product seals the torn facing or broken area and provides a suitable base for drywall patch, preventing blistering of the drywall paper under the patch. Allow 3 hours drying time before applying a skim coat patch. If needed, spot prime the patched area, or prime the entire wall and topcoat with the desired finish.

  • Q: I have a textured ceiling, but prefer a smooth ceiling. How can I change this to a smooth surface?

    A: In most cases, textured paint is applied to a sheetrock wall after only one or two coats of joint compound was applied. Because the plan was to texture, the contractor did not prepare the wall for a smooth finish. In most cases once loose textured paint is removed, a fresh coat of texture would need to be applied in order to hide any imperfections.Most textured paint is water-soluble and can be softened by soaking with warm water or stripped with a conventional paint stripper. However, it may be easier to scrape the surface while it is still dry. Be sure to wear eye protection and a dust mask as scraping will create dust. Scraping can also be rather messy, so be sure to cover or remove anything that could be damaged in the process. Once the existing texture is removed, the substrate can be patched as needed and primed. Follow with fresh texture, or, if the surface is smooth enough after patching, you can follow with a standard ceiling paint.

  • Q: If I miscalculate and need to buy more paint later, will the color match exactly?

    A: While every effort is made to ensure uniformity of color, the fact remains that paint products, tint products, and even tinting equipment, all operate within specified tolerance levels. This means that there is a possibility that cans of paint bought at different times may not match exactly.If and/or when you realize that you will not have enough paint to complete a full coat over the entire space, we recommend that you stop at a natural break, such as a corner, window or door opening. Then go purchase additional product. If you’re painting the final coat and you anticipate that you may need to touch up some of the areas already coated, take some product from the original material and set it aside (be sure to label it so that you can identify which areas it was used on). Take the remainder of the original paint and mix it with the new product before continuing.

  • Q: Can I paint ceramic tile?

    A: Ceramic tile on a wall that is not subjected to exposure to a lot of water (such as a shower, tub surround, area behind a kitchen or bathroom sink, etc.) can be coated. First, wash the surface with an appropriate cleaner and rinse the wall thoroughly. Sand the surface to provide a good "tooth" for the primer. Apply one coat of Multi-Purpose Zero VOC Latex Primer according to package directions. Appy 2 topcoats of an appropriate finish.

  • Q: Can paneling be painted?

    A: Older wood paneling can be painted. First clean the surfaces thoroughly using an appropriate cleaner. Often, even on this material, someone may have used polish or some other wax-based material making this cleaning necessary. If waxes exist, remove with ammoniated cleaners. Once dry, sand the surface to a smooth dull finish and remove all sanding dust. Once clean use Multi-Purpose Oil-Based Primer to prime the surface. The oil base primer will help prevent bleeding. Follow with a good quality latex paint like our SuperPaint Interior Acrylic Latex Paint. Naturally it would be good to test this system first on a small section prior to tackling the whole project.

  • Q: What adverse effects does thinning a paint product produce?

    A: Most products are ready to go right out of the can with no reduction necessary. Some products can be reduced to some degree. The product’s data page will indicate the maximum reduction allowed if any and the correct type of reducer. Please note that reducing a paint product past the recommended levels would produce a coating that may not offer the same performance characteristics as those indicated on the product’s data page. Always use the recommended solvent and never reduce past the amounts recommended by the product’s manufacturer.

  • Q: Can weather conditions affect the application characteristics of an exterior paint?

    A: Yes. While products are optimized for application in a wide range of environmental conditions, at extremes the application may need to be adjusted. If surface, air and material temperatures are too high or too low (ranges are indicated on the data page or product label), then these conditions could impact products, drying, leveling and the overall condition of the finish coat.In higher temperatures, a product may even begin to set up on the brush, causing dragging and preventing proper leveling. Such conditions will result in a finish that is not as smooth as it could be and brush stokes will be visible. In these conditions, you might need to add solvent to slow drying.In cooler temperatures, slow drying may make a product more susceptible to sagging. In these conditions, apply thinner coats or use a product that can handle the temperature.

  • Q: What should I use to paint my wood porch floor?

    A: When painting wood there is a balance that needs to be achieved. Wood is constantly expanding and contracting with changes in the environment. The harder and more durable the finish, the more rigid and less forgiving to movement it can be. On the other hand, paint materials that are very flexible are not hard enough to handle the foot traffic.Taking this into consideration, it is best to paint this surface with our Porch & Floor Enamel. An oil-based alternative such as our All Surface Enamel Oil can also be used, especially where more abrasion is anticipated. In a common entry, it may be necessary to touch up the traffic area every year or two while the rest of the surface may last longer. Some have found it advantageous to install a runner of some sort to minimize the maintenance of this surface.For a thinner film build system, we recommend our DeckScapes Solid Latex Stain.

  • Q: Can I paint my vinyl floor?

    A: Vinyl flooring and vinyl tile surfaces should not be painted. The composition of these surfaces prevents proper adhesion of paints. Direct impact, abrasion from foot traffic as well as flexing of the floor can result.

  • Q: I have a long hallway that needs to be painted. I am worried about coating with a high-gloss product because this may show some of the imperfections. What do you recommend?

    A: Some will use an medium sheen, such as our Eg-Shel or Satin finishes. These will offer improved washability as compared to a flat finish while not developing as high a sheen as semi-gloss or high gloss products. Another option, if you prefer a low or flat finish, is Duration Home®. This product comes in either flat, satin or semi gloss, but offers stain resistance in all sheen levels. Your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams store can provide you with more details on this product.

  • Q: When using an oil-based product, how much time is needed for the product to set up sufficiently to withstand rain or precipitation?

    A: Factors such as actual temperatures, humidity levels and even air movement all contribute to the drying of an alkyd resin. In addition, the thickness of the newly applied coat and the porosity of the surface will also impact the time needed for an oil-base product to set up.However, it could be said that the first 8 hours or so of the cure time is critical. If adverse weather was imminent (within 8 hours) we would recommend waiting until conditions improve. It should be noted that although oil-base products are rather resilient, as a rule, we would not recommend painting if rain is in the immediate forecast.

  • Q: How can I paint a chain-link fence?

    A: It is easiest to use a heavy nap roller (1" or even 1 1/4" nap). Plan to roll over both sides to be sure to cover the whole area. You should plan on a lot of drips, so use tarps to catch excess paint. If possible, spray application will provide a better overall finish and will be much faster; however, consideration should be given to controlling the spray. Some painters have a partner move along the opposite side of the fence with a shield to catch the overspray. When figuring out how much paint you will need, consider the fence to be a 2 sided wall to calculate the square footage you are going to cover.

  • Q: When should I use a synthetic brush?

    A: Nylon, polyester and nylon/polyester blended brushes are the applicator of choice when working with waterborne materials. These products will pick up and release waterborne coatings better than natural bristle brushes. The filaments will not absorb water and become damaged from use with such products. You will find a wide range in pricing, and the higher quality brushes are typically well worth the higher price. These will often have differently shaped bristles. In addition the bristles will be laser split to improve the overall release of a paint film. In addition, some are chemically treated to facilitate clean up after painting

  • Q: How do we go about painting kitchen cabinets that are painted already?

    A: After removing the hardware, clean the surfaces thoroughly with an appropriate cleaner. It is imperative that greases and oil build-up are removed prior to continuing with the next steps. Often furniture polish or some other wax-based material may have been used on these. If waxes exist, remove with ammoniated cleaners. Sanding the surface prior to painting will help promote adhesion. Follow with a block resisting latex paint like our Pro Classic Waterborne or oil-based semi gloss. Naturally it would be good to test this system first on a small section prior to tackling the whole project.

  • Q: How can I remove the white, chalky material that is developing on my masonry surface?

    A: This sounds like efflorescence. Efflorescence is often seen as a white, fluffy deposit of salt crystals on cementitious wall surfaces. It depends on the presence of salt and moisture. The growth of crystals will continue as long as both elements are present. The salts are present in the mortar blocks or concrete structure and the moisture is usually attributable to some building defect. When emanating from mortar in brick or block buildings, efflorescence will appear as narrow bands corresponding to mortar joints. Painting should be delayed if efflorescence continues. Salts should be removed by mechanical brushing. The use of water (at high pressure) to remove efflorescence is not recommended as it may exacerbate the problem. Repair areas where moisture penetrates the wall. Allow walls to dry thoroughly prior to priming.

  • Q: When should I use a china bristle brush?

    A: Black or white china bristle brushes should be used when working with oil-base products. (Do not use these when working with waterborne coatings because the water will soak into the bristle and damage the brush.) When working with oil-base paints, the softer nature of the natural bristle will promote better release of the coating onto the surface and will generate an overall better finish. White china bristle brushes are most commonly used when working with less viscous products, such as interior, oil-based stains and polyurethanes.

  • Q: When should I consider a pad applicator?

    A: Because of their very nature, pad applicators are designed for smooth surfaces. In addition, because they tend not to hold enough paint to cover large areas, they are primarily used on small surfaces or when working with less viscous materials (such as stains or varnishes). Pad applicators are ideal if you want to limit brush strokes and/or the texture created by rollers. Some pad applicators (for example, the ones with wheels on one side) are specifically made for trimming out around a ceiling or trim line.

  • Q: How do I wash my freshly painted wall?

    A: To assure maximum washability and durability, wait at least two weeks before washing the dry paint film. Avoid any abrasive or harsh chemical cleaners as these could damage the paint film.Concentrated Cleaners (Liquid or Dry):Read all package directions before using. It is always recommended to test any cleaner on a small, inconspicuous area prior to use.Mix or dilute the cleaner per package instructions. Solution strength may be adjusted depending on amount and type of contaminant.Remove any heavy debris and contaminants.Using a sponge or cloth, wash surface dirt and marks.Do not allow the cleaner to dry on the surface.Always clean from the bottom of a wall to the top.Rinse the surface thoroughly.Repeat if necessary.Premixed Spray Cleaners:Read all the package directions before using. It is always recommended to test any cleaner on a small, inconspicuous area prior to use.Turn spray nozzle to desired spray pattern (open with nozzle facing away from you).Remove any heavy debris and contaminants.Apply the cleaner to the dirt and marks (apply just enough to wet the area).Using a damp sponge or cloth, wipe to remove the surface dirt and marks and any excess cleaner. For difficult stains, some scrubbing may be necessary.Do not allow the cleaner to dry on the surface.If recommended on the label of the cleaner, rinse the surface.

  • Q: Are there any issues associated with painting over a textured surface?

    A: A common problem with existing textured paint is that it can be water-soluble. If you use a waterborne product directly over such a surface, it may cause the existing texture to begin to soften and fall off of the surface. Test a fast-drying alkyd primer on the surface. Alkyds have the best chance of not wetting the texture paint. If the alkyd primer does not prevent the softening of the texture, then you may have to consider complete removal of the existing texture and reapplication of a new coat.Application of a fresh coat by roller may be easiest for most; however, in some cases it may not be possible to roll over texture paint as this, too, could cause it to come off. In such cases, application via airless spray may need to be considered. Test the application method over a small area prior to painting the entire ceiling.

  • Q: Why should I buy a high-quality brush?

    A: A good quality brush is well constructed, offers better quality (and, often, a greater number of) bristles, holds and releases paint better and minimizes brush marks. Be sure to clean the brush thoroughly with the appropriate cleaner. From time to time, a solvent brush cleaner can be used to maintain the bristles.

  • Q: I have paneling and it feels like vinyl wallpaper, not real wood paneling. Can I paint it?

    A: Vinyl surfaces can sometimes be difficult to coat. The composition of some of these surfaces prevents proper adhesion of paints. For best results we always recommend testing the system prior to taking on the whole job.First clean the surfaces thoroughly with an appropriate cleaner. Often, even on this material, someone may have used polish or some other wax-based material making this cleaning necessary. If waxes exist, remove with ammoniated cleaners. Test the Sherwin-Williams Multi-Purpose Zero VOC Latex Primer on the surface for adhesion. If the primer dries without lifting or blistering, you may then proceed and finish with a good quality latex paint like SuperPaint or Duration Home.

  • Q: I have new plaster walls how do I go about painting them?

    A: New plaster typically requires 30 days to cure. The Loxon Masonry Primer can be applied to new plaster that has dried for at least 7 days with temperatures around 77 degrees F and relative humidity around 50%. Lower temperatures or higher humidity will extend the dry time of 7 days. Soft, porous, or powdery plaster should be treated with a solution of 1 pint household vinegar to 1 gallon of water. Repeat until the surface is hard, rinse with water and allow to dry before painting. If allowed to cure for 30 days, prime with Premium Wall and Wood Primer and topcoat with the desired finish.

  • Q: What can I use to paint ceramic tile floors?

    A: We do not have a coating that will work on ceramic tile floors.

  • Q: Should a good quality brush last forever?

    A: While the higher quality brushes provide a better finish and would last a long time when used by the infrequent painter, bristles can wear, especially when used to coat rough surfaces. For example, if you’re applying a solvent-based stain with a natural china bristle brush over rough sawn clapboard, you may wear out one or more brushes if coating many linear feet of board. However, the ability of the brush to load and release product still makes it well worth the expense. This being said, if coating over a smooth surfaces, the brush can last through many projects if properly cleaned after each use and stored in the original package to protect the bristles.