Faux Finishing FAQs

Faux Finishing FAQs

Q: Why is a sea sponge recommended for this type of application?

A:Sponging with the most asymmetric shaped sponge available will produce the best effect. A synthetic sea sponge will offer a very uneven surface with varying shaped pores — ideal for such an application.

Q: How can I create different faux techniques on an otherwise smooth surface?

A:There are many different options. More detailed explanations about various faux finish various techniques are found on our web site in the Painting section.

Q: After applying a faux effect in a common hallway, what can I apply to protect the surface?

A:When using a satin or semi-gloss coating, you would not need to apply a clear coat in most cases.  However, if you’re using a saturated color or otherwise want additional protection, our WoodClassics® Waterborne Polyurethane can be used. Please note that, over time, even these products could experience some slight ambering. For this reason, we would not recommend this for very light-colored effects.

Q: How much glaze should I add to the paint?

A:The actual ratio can vary.  In many cases a sponge technique can be applied with a solution of 3 or 4 parts illusions glaze to one part paint.  It’s not uncommon to achieve dramatic effects with ratios as high as 16 parts glaze (or higher) to one part paint.

Q: How do I create a colorwash effect?

A:Select three colors that are in the same family. Use the darkest color as the base coat. Using the middle color, mix one part paint to four parts illusions® Faux Finish Latex Glazing Liquid. Use a dry, four-inch brush to apply the second coat, using bold sweeping arcs. Pay attention to the edges of the wall to ensure that they have the same decorative effect. The lightest color should be mixed one part paint to fifteen parts glaze. When applying this coat, try to uniform areas missed by the second coat. The more overlapped brush marks, the better the overall results.

Q: How do I create a glitter effect?

A:Glitter is broadcast onto a wet paint film during the painting process. While glitter could be applied by hand, it is best to use a glitter gun. These are handheld units that will broadcast the glitter over the surface more evenly. Glitter can be used with paint of any finish: flat, satin or semi-gloss. It is available in silver, gold or clear and can be purchased or ordered at your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams store.

Q: How do I achieve a cloud affect on the wall?

A:First, you will want to select a blue shade for the background. One background option is Sherwin-Williams color SW 6506. The clouds can be created by using Extra White paint and adding black in small amounts to make various shades of gray (some people opt to use only white).  After applying the background color and allowing it to dry for 4 hours (or overnight if possible), mix the paint that will be used to create the clouds with 4 parts illusions® Faux Finish Latex Glazing Liquid™.  This will provide you with a longer open time and facilitate the application. Use a synthetic sea sponge to create the cloud effect onto the surface.

To form a cumulus cloud, sponge a horizontal line the length of the cloud, and then add puffs that rise up from this base.  As the glaze color runs out of the sponge, use it to blend the edges and apply lighter puffy bands in the lower third of the surface.  Keep a clean, damp sponge handy for blending edges of the cloud shapes.

You'll find everything you need to create this effect, including synthetic sea sponges and helpful brochures, at your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams store.

Q: How do I apply SandScapes™?

A:Mix multiple containers together for color uniformity. Stir thoroughly before and occasionally during use.

Starting at the top corner of a wall, cut in a 2" wide by 18" stripe across the ceiling and down the corner with a brush. Then, uniform the wet paint using the 4-inch specialty finish roller cover. Fill in the 18"x18" section using the 9-inch specialty finish roller cover, using just enough pressure to spread the product evenly. Continue down the wall by cutting in at the corners and rolling in 18"x18" sections.

When the column is complete, follow with a light, continuous sweep of the roller from ceiling to floor without reloading the roller. This will uniform the finish. Repeat this process across the wall. The first coat will look uneven - the second coat will uniform the finish. Apply the second coat using the same technique as the first coat.

Q: How do I apply SoftSuede™?

A:Mix multiple containers together for color uniformity. Stir thoroughly before and occasionally during use.

Starting at the top corner of a wall, cut in a 2" wide by 18" long stripe across the ceiling then down the corner with a brush, then uniform the wet paint using a 4-inch roller. Fill in the 18"x18" section using a 9-inch roller, using just enough pressure to spread the product evenly. Continue down the wall by cutting in at the corner and rolling 18"x18" sections. When the column is complete, follow with a light, continuous sweep of the roller from ceiling to floor without reloading the roller. This will uniform the finish.

Apply the second coat with a 3-inch brush in a random, sweeping, crisscross pattern of overlapping x's over the entire surface. When dry, the wall will have complete coverage and the appearance of hand-brushed suede. Two coats are required.

Q: How do I distress a piece of furniture?

A:Distressing or creating the effect of an old worn piece of furniture can be done using various techniques.  Often chains, wire brushes, rasps, and sandpaper, are used over a new finish or before coating the surface to give the appearance of being old. This should only be attempted on solid wood furniture as the stripping and distressing process can damage veneers.

First, remove any finish that may be on the item to be distressed. A chemical stripper can be used where needed. Be sure to follow all cautions and safety instructions. Because you may be working with an older surface, we would like to offer the following lead hazard cautionary statement: WARNING! Removing or disturbing old paint from interior or exterior surfaces by sanding, scraping, abrading, or other means may produce dust, debris, or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust, debris or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children and pregnant women. Structures built before 1978 should be tested by a licensed inspector prior to removing or disturbing old paint. For more information, call the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD.

Once you have removed all finish or sanded to a dull finish, the actual surface can be distressed (dented and dinged) using chains or hammers (tap at an angle so as not to create a perfectly round dent). This is an optional step and can be done after coating if preferred. Follow with an oil stain and a urethane finish.

If distressed look is desired for a painted surface rather than a stained surface, prime the bare wood with an alkyd wood primer instead of staining. Follow the primer with multiple coats (possibly two or more distinctly different colors) of oil-base paint. Once the paint is dry, areas on the surface can be sanded (using coarse sandpaper) to expose in varying degrees the previous coat of paint or stain.

You can also achieve a crackle effect with Sherwin-Williams illusions® Faux Finish Crackle Medium. Paint the surface with a desired base color in latex paint.  Then, apply a coat of illusions® Faux Finish Crackle Medium. This is a clear coat that will cause the crackling to occur. Follow with a desired topcoat.  It is important that this final coat be latex paint (oil -base paint will not crackle over the illusions® material). The illusions® Crackle Medium will cause the topcoat to crack and separate, exposing the previous coat.

We recommend testing your planned faux finish on a separate piece of wood to ensure an aesthetically pleasing effect.

Q: How do I get a jean or dungaree effect?

A:Apply a base coat of acrylic latex satin and allow to dry for four hours.  Then, mask off three- to four-foot vertical panels across the entire area with low-tack painter's tape.

Mix one part of the latex satin with 5 parts illusions® Faux Finish Latex Glazing Liquid™.  Apply a thin, even coat using a quality 1/4 - inch nap roller and latex paint brush. Next, use a 4-inch steel combing tool to drag vertically through the fresh glaze. Wipe comb with a rag after each pass.. Once the panel has been combed vertically, (top to bottom) immediately comb it diagonally at a 45 degree angle. (You will have about 5-10 minutes to comb the fresh glaze before it starts to tack up).

Remove the painter's tape as soon as each section is completed.  Be sure to skip every other panel as you make your way counterclockwise around the room.  When the first set of panels is dry (approximately six hours), isolate the remaining panels by taping over the edges of their previously glazed counterparts.  Note: As you are combing every other panel during your first pass around the room, make sure the diagonal marks are all going in the same direction.  If you want to further enhance the dungaree look, when one the first set of panels are dry, comb the remaining ones diagonally in the opposite direction to create a herringbone effect and to accentuate the seams.

Q: How do I create a wood grain effect on a smooth, opaque surface?

A:Graining consists of applying a ground coat then, using graining tools, working in a pattern of wood grain with other colors.

Skillful graining requires much practice. To become familiar with the characteristics of various woods, it is advisable to study actual samples. (Your local library should have many books on faux finishing.  In graining, keep in mind that nature never produces two patterns exactly alike; therefore too much repetition of pattern should be avoided.)

Tools used in graining include steel and rubber graining combs; fitch brushes for veining; sable pencil brushes; hog hair mottlers; camel's hair mottlers; piped overgrainer; badger's hair blenders; stipplers and graining check roller. The most popular graining method is "brush graining," which is described below.

Apply a base coat (match the color of a light wood being imitated) using SuperPaint® Interior Latex Satin. Apply blended glazing material (Acrylic Faux Finishing Glaze) to the surface base coat. Brush streaks into the coating by drawing a coarse, dry brush or whisk broom down through the color from top to bottom while the glaze is still wet. The brush should be wriggled as it is pulled along, to produce a wavy grain in some places. In this type of graining, no particular attempt is made to imitate actual grain or figure of a particular wood, but the overall effect will be pleasing.